A Small Taste of Tuscany

The winding streets of Cortona

Mamma mia! 

Why on earth did I wait 30 years to return to Italy? 

The last time I visited was 1986, as part of my first 'grand tour' of Europe. I suppose I have been busy seeing other places but Kevin and I have often said to each other over the years 'We must get back to Italy...' Somehow it's never quite come off - until now.

Flying over the snow-covered Italian alps

On the road from Pisa to Siena

The catalyst for finally getting back here was my friend Lyndall, who lived in Siena for a couple of years and since returning to Australia has maintained strong ties with that beautiful medieval city. She's currently building a house in the Chianti area, only a short drive away through the Tuscan countryside, and so she's back in Siena to oversee the final stage of the project.

I flew into Pisa which is only just over two hours from Heathrow. Despite having spent a number of years in the UK, as an Australian I am still agog that I can leave grey, crowded London and in a couple of hours be in another world - be it Scandinavia, central Europe or the Mediterranean. So different from being at the 'arse end of the world' where even travelling to the other side of the country takes at least five hours.

Lyndall collected me at the airport and impressed me no end with her ability to drive like one of the locals. We proceeded at warp speed, changing lanes without indicating and communicating with other drivers via dramatic gesticulation.

Late afternoon sun bathing Siena in golden light

And so we arrived in Siena just as the sun was sinking, with the ancient stone buildings bathed in golden light - it was a breathtaking first glimpse.

The apartment where Lyndall is staying is right in the centre of the old city which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and literally a minute's walk from Siena's justifiably famous, fan-shaped Piazza del Campo. After a quick change and freshen up we donned our coats against the chill and Lyndall whisked me away to show off the best of Siena on a Saturday night.

We meandered along the narrow, winding streets, the elegant stores with their beautiful wares beckoning. It was with a sense of drama that Lyndall led me down to the Piazza where I could appreciate at first-hand the glorious gothic Town Hall and Torre del Magni, lit up against the inky blueness of the Tuscan night sky.

The magnificent Torre del Mangia, completed in 1348

Fonte Gaia

Siena - the home of panforte

Despite it being a cold night the Piazza was buzzing with dog-walkers, strolling couples, families taking their evening constitutionals. We headed straight for one of the many restaurants that face onto the square for aperitivo - a terribly civilised thing to do before dinner. Lyndall tells me that drinking to excess, and drinking for the sake of drinking, is frowned upon in Italy. Therefore one takes aperitivo, a drink to open up the palate (mine's a Prosecco, thanks) served with a small selection of appetisers. In our ever-shrinking, generic world it's the little things like this that make travel memorable and I looked forward to the ritual each evening.

After aperitivo we made our way to what is regarded as Siena's best restaurant, La Taverna di San Giuseppe, where Lyndall was welcomed almost as a family member. It seems she has brought a lot of friends to this beautiful restaurant and I'm guessing none of them were disappointed.

The wine was superb, the food based on seasonal availability and local produce, the atmosphere informal but elegant. The building dates from 1100 but it was a treat to be shown around the Etruscan cellar that dates from 200 BC.

Siena by night

Lyndall outside the entrance of La Taverna di San Giuseppe

After dinner we strolled around the city, Lyndall pointing out its amazing history, before stopping at the Tea Room, another venue where Lyndall is no stranger. It's housed within a 15th century building and genuinely is a tea room, but it's also a bar and very popular with students late at night. 

I should mention at this point how delightful it is to be in a city where cars are very much in the minority. The centre of Siena - inside the fortress walls - is mostly accessible only on foot. Cars (other than taxis, police etc) are strictly prohibited, though motorcycles and scooters are allowed.

The difference of being able to stroll around at leisure without the noise and the danger of vehicles is incredible. Combined with the ancient architecture it feels like a completely different way of life. 

Statue of Sallustio Bandini, in the Piazza Salimbeni

Lyndall and Yours Truly with the obligatory selfie

Each day started with a quick breakfast of fresh fruit and then a superb coffee, taken standing at the bar, at one of the nearby excellent establishments. 

On my first morning in Siena we headed off in the car to Lecchi in Chianti, the tiny village where Lyndall's beautiful house is nearing completion. She's got a great elevated spot with views across the valley and the town, and when the village bells chime it's pretty darned special.

The house has been built in the local style, faced with local stone. It's going to be a gorgeous hideaway and I can't tell you how impressed I am with Lyndall's determination to manage the whole thing herself - I watched her spend two hours with three tradesmen as they argued over drainage, timelines and the stability of dry stone walls... almost entirely in Italian, and Lyndall held her own. 

The view from Lyndall's apartment

At lunchtime we drove to the elevated medieval town of Cortona. It was a glorious sunny day but the wind - glacial! It was clearly coming straight off the snow-capped mountains and with much of the town in shadow (narrow streets and low winter sun) we were inspired to walk briskly.

We dined at a tiny little restaurant, nothing fancy but as we found everywhere we went - and as Lyndall's experience confirms - even in the most modest Tuscan establishment one can expect excellent, friendly service and superb local produce accompanied by delicious local wine, at very reasonable prices.

Lyndall seems to know just about everyone in Tuscany, and in Cortona we made an after-lunch visit at her friend Ivan's wonderful art gallery, Il Pozzo. Some years ago he discovered an Etruscan well under the floor and it's now on display as an additional 'exhibit'. 

The Tuscan countryside from Cortona, with Lake Trasimeno in the distance

Basilica of Santa Margherita, Cortona

La Fett'Unta, our lunch venue - what a find!

Sampling the local wine at lunch

The following day we drove out to the house again, and then pootled down the road a few minutes to the picturesque neighbouring village of San Sano for lunch.

I've read tree-change biographies where people have taken up residence in France or Italy, and they often write that even the most humble restaurant in the most far-flung location offers simple but superb food. That was certainly my experience, and at La Grotta della Rana trattoria in San Sano the only other patrons for lunch were local workmen. What a culture! When one compares tradesmen and agricultural workers in Tuscany with those in Australia and England... my goodness, the Italians do seem much more sophisticated. Even their work clothes are far more stylish.

Grotta della Rana Trattoria, San Sano

Another fabulous lunch in Tuscany - Lyndall by the glow of the fire

The afternoon was spent back in Siena, exploring the truly spectacular duomo which was designed and completed in the 13th century, though further works continued for another century.

Incredible striped marble pillars and tower, amazing tiled floor, beautiful illuminated ceiling in the library... this landmark has it all. No visit to Siena would be complete without seeing the cathedral.

Siena Cathedral - full name 'Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption'

The striped romanesque bell tower of Siena Cathedral

Siena Cathedral interior

The incredible illuminated ceiling of the Piccolomini Library, Siena Cathedral

Saints and gargoyles on the facade of Siena Cathedral

How's that for a domed ceiling?

On my final day in Tuscany we drove through the countryside en route to Pisa airport, stopping briefly to stretch our legs at yet another elevated, medieval fortress town - San Gimignano. It's known as The Town of Fine Towers, with good reason. Although many other Tuscan towns have lost most of their towers due to war, natural catastrophe or urban renewal, San Gimignano has managed to retain fourteen of them. Like Siena, the town centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

San Gimignano, another gorgeous mediaeval town just south of Florence

What an incredible four days.

Siena is so beautifully positioned, being only an hour or two by car from Florence, Pisa and Bologna, and only three or four hours' drive from Milan and Rome.

Kevin and I are making plans to travel to Siena together, hopefully sometime when Lyndall is there and he was sorry not to be able to join me on this trip. As a Twilight geek I'm also keen to explore Volterra, which featured in one of the films and which we passed by on our way back to Pisa airport.

It was wonderful to visit this area in the low season; I imagine it is absolutely thronged in summer and Lyndall assures me I would not like the heat. So we will hope to visit in spring or autumn.

Snow-covered mountains and the Ligurian Sea
- goodbye to Tuscany

I couldn't have hoped for a better reintroduction to Italy. What great fortune to have a dear friend with this connection to a beautiful city.

Until next time,
- Maree xo